How do ejectors work shotguns

Rest the side you have loosened on the bench and tap the opposite side with the palm of your hand to dislodge the screw. Do the same with the second screw, then slide the ejectors and extensions out of the barrel flats. In fitting new extensions, it is best to obtain as close a fit as possible with no binding. The surfaces to adjust in achieving that fit are the flat surface that mates with the bottom of the barrel flat slot and the two adjoining angled edges of the extension.

You remove any material by hand with a fine file, and you work slowly, checking your progress often. The goal in fitting a new ejector blank is the same as with ejector extensions: To make it fit as close as possible without binding.

If it is loosely fit, the ejector can ride over the rim of a fired shell and cause malfunctions. You begin to fit a blank to either barrel by adjusting its flat side to mate with the bottom of the barrel flat slot and the two, adjoining, angled edges of the extension. The face of the blank should now be dressed flush, or slightly below, with the breech face. Lock the blank in a padded vise for the initial cuts.

Make your next to final cuts with the blank installed in the barrel, the barrel secured in the same padded vise, and use extreme care not to file into the breech. Use a half-round file, not a chamber reamer. Finally, the proper headspace must be cut in with a headspace reamer identical to those used by the factory and Browning repair centers. Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to make this adjustment without the proper tooling. If the problem with ejection is timing related, that is, the shells are ejected too soon or not soon enough, the solution lies in the ejector trip rods or the ejector sears.

To delay ejection and make it necessary to open the action further before the ejectors are tripped, focus on the trip rods. They must be relieved at the place indicated in the accompanying trip-rod diagram.

To speed up ejector release, thus kicking out empties sooner, focus on the ejector sears. To accelerate their function, you must remove material on the sears as indicated. Just remember that the front end of a new trip rod is cut off square. It must be shortened and rounded to match the contour of the forearm bracket before you make timing adjustments. It never ceases to amaze me how some owners allow crud to build up and still expect their sorely neglected gun to work.

Another example of the different terminology used is the projecting part of the fore-end iron to which the fore-end wood is fitted. Stale as in broom stale is how a born-and-bred Brummie would pronounce steel, or at least that is how it would sound to an outsider. Word of mouth was the means by which many terms were passed on from one individual to another — which could also have added to the regional differences of course. Similarly, with break-open shotguns the main steel parts are the barrels, action body or just body and fore-end iron.

The long steel, or stale, secures not only the fore-end wood but is also important in having some sort of catch to hold the fore-end in place. Most of the make-up of a sidelock is the same as a boxlock; the main difference is the lockwork fitted to plates on each side making it a direct descendant of the hammergun, but with the hammers inside. The handsomely decorated sideplates on a Bettinsoli conceal a standard Italian boxlock action. A sidelock can be a bar lock, where the front of the lockplate carrying the mainspring fits into a cut-out in the bar of the action body.

There are also bar-lock sidelocks with rear acting mainsprings and back-action sidelocks where the locks are fitted behind the action body.

Shotgun barrels have ribs. On a side-by-side shotgun these will be top and bottom, on an over-and-under, top and side ribs.

Purdey side-by-side shotgun with 30in barrels featuring a game rib. The small catch that holds the fore-end in place is a fore-end loop , though it bears no resemblance to any such thing, but is a word left over from muzzle-loader days when it did look more like a loop. The front one forms the hook which hinges on the cross-pin and both this and the rear lump have cut-outs named bites, into which the locking bolt engages to hold the gun shut. Clamp frame in vise with padded jaws so that rear of frame is up, and place mainsprings and mainspring plungers into frame.

Position a hammer so that its projection at lower front engages notch in mainspring plunger, and push hammer toward front of frame with too! Insert punch through frame hole and hammer, pass punch through cocking lever, put in second hammer, press it forward with tool, and insert punch through holes in second hammer and other side of frame. Then drive in hammer pin.

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